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In the Cosmetics area, there is a profound movement to use Cannabis bioactives, known as cannabinoids, in various applications and benefits for the skin.
Cannabis contains hundreds of bioactives, however the most important of them is Cannabidiol (CBD) and can be found as an oily extract, which is also free, or with minimal portions of Tetrahydrocannabinol (THC), the psychotropic portion of the plant.
In several areas of Health, there is already information about applications with proven benefits for controlling anxiety, epilepsy, autism, chronic pain and inflammation, among others.
Countries with their regulatory professionals are gradually approving the use of these bioactives for different purposes, creating a fast-growing industry in the world, estimated at US$$ 200 billion in 2025.
Interestingly, two types of receptors have been identified (Gaffal et al (2013)) in the body for cannabinoid molecules, known as CB1, normally located in the brain and lungs, and CB2, normally located in the immune system and peripheral nerves.
But to the delight of dermatology professionals, these two receptors were also jointly identified in the skin through Keratinoids, thus allowing the cannabinoid molecules to connect with the largest organ in the human body, the skin, and, consequently, with multiple metabolic mechanisms. .
The use of Cannabis in the cosmetic area is very recent, however we already have citations of various benefits in work carried out by researchers and companies.
Tests in vitro have demonstrated reduction and modulation of edema and inflammation that cause pain and discomfort.
It has also been shown to be a sebum control agent (Oláh et al (2014)). It has characteristics that suppress the secretion of pro-inflammatory cytosines (Chiurchiù et al (2016)) and also activity on tyrosinase and melanin (Hwang YS et al (2017)) for pigmentation control effects.
In humans, tests were carried out with topical treatments (Ali A, Akhtar N (2015)) with formulas containing 3% cannabidiol extract, resulting in a significant reduction in sebum production in the facial region, an opportunity to reduce acne.
Human studies have also demonstrated reduced discomfort from the inflammation of aging skin known as pruritus.
A study with 20 patients (Palmieri B et al (2019), suffering from topical dermatitis and psoriasis, was carried out for 3 months with products containing cannabidiol extract showing improvements in symptoms, accompanied by a PASI index assessment, without showing allergies and irritations.
Market research has estimated that in 2024 the global market for Skin Care Cosmetics containing products derived from Cannabis is expected to reach US$ 959 million, classified as an innovation in the line of natural products.
This movement is mainly being carried out by independent brands (High Five, Cannuka) known as Indie brands.
There is a strong association generating motivation to consume these cosmetics in line with the benefits of Cannabis as natural antioxidants, in terms of longevity and sustainability.
There is also innovation with products (Dirty Grass, BEBOE) in the area of fragrances with the infusion of ingredients derived from Cannabis.
Traditional brands from large companies seek their market positioning to avoid ruptures in the relationship with their current consumers.
This is an industry with a high technological level, starting with the botanical variety, the processes for obtaining molecules and bioactives and the various biological applications of interest.
With the resources of AI, a database with algorithms is being created that will open and simplify the path between the wonders of nature and the benefits for a responsible society.
Article prepared by Eduardo Aledo, Chemical Engineer and MBA.
Entrepreneur at Rubian Extratos to obtain minimalist and sustainable functional bioactives with application in different areas related to Health and Well-being. He developed a career in the area of Research & Development and Innovation in Health, Hygiene and Cosmetics products at Johnson & Johnson and VRD Research with Strategic Design Thinking models and processes.